Monday 30 March 2015

Peru - Santa Cruz Trek


After our visit to the Ecuadorian cloud forest, the next item on our itinerary was way down in Huaraz Peru, reputedly the home of the best trekking in the world outside of the Himalayas. We had plans to meet our friend Ron in Huaraz and do some hiking together. We'd already spent a fair bit of time travelling north through Ecuador up to Quito, so we decided to head south as quickly as possible to maximize our trekking time in Peru. This did not end well.

First we caught a bus from Quito all the way down to Trujillo Peru. We left Quito at 6:00 PM on March 12th, and finally arrived in Trujillo at 2:00 AM on March 14th - thirty two hours later. After five hours sleep, we hung around Trujillo for the day before catching the first available bus to Huaraz leaving at 10:00 PM and arriving at 5:30 AM the next morning. A couple of hours later we were sharing coffee and breakfast with Ron with amazing views of the Cordillera Blanca, the world's highest tropical mountain range. This was the high point of our first ten days in Huaraz.

All that time on buses with very little sleep caught up to us. By that evening, I had a very sore throat. The next day a painful cough, fever and intermittent chills kicked in. The first three days were the worst, by which time Cyd began experiencing the same symptoms. We spent ten days in Huaraz before we both felt good enough to actually start hiking. With the patience of Buddha, Ron hung around the hostel day after day and ventured out for a meal with whoever felt up to it. He enquired about our health regularly, and never once checked the date on his watch while doing so. With only six weeks for his entire visit to Peru, Ron finally gave up after a full week of waiting, and miraculously made it out of town without catching our bug.

When we finally felt up to it, Cyd and I started by doing the Santa Cruz trek. It's the most popular trek in the area and being only a four day hike, was a relatively easy start after being sick. On the bright side, we were well prepared for the high elevations after acclimatising for ten days before starting to hike. The Santa Cruz trek is in the Parque Nacional Huascaran, about 50 kms long, with only one major pass to climb.

We caught two collectivos (minivans that in Canada would hold twelve passengers, but in South America hold an unlimited number), first to Yungay, then over the mountains to Vaqueria. By 10:30 AM, we were on the trail heading back in the direction we came. While parks in Peru prohibit industrial development, they continue to allow local residents to use the land. Every area we hiked in Peru was populated by horses, cows, and alpacas grazing in the alpine meadows.
After a short standoff, Cyd decided to take a detour off the trail.

Thursday 12 March 2015

Ecuador - Quito and the Santa Lucia Cloud Forest


Quito is the highest official capital city in the world at 2,800 metres and it's historic centre was one of the first two World Cultural Heritage Sites designated by UNESCO in 1978. It’s full of cobblestone streets, beautiful old churches, and historic squares that are still the social centres of the city. Due to our slightly convoluted itinerary, we ended up in Quito three different times - before and after our Galapagos trip, and then after our visit to the Ecuadorian cloud forest north of the city.

We stayed close to the historic centre each time, allowing us to hang out among the beautiful old buildings that make up what UNESCO considers the "largest, least-altered, and best-preserved historic center in the Americas." Many Latin American cities have beautiful colonial centres, but Quito's really tops the rest.



The Basilica del Vota Nacional.
460' long, 150' wide, and 377' high.

Thursday 5 March 2015

Ecuador - The Galapagos Islands

After a brief stopover in Quito, we caught a flight to Guayaquil, the largest city in Ecuador, then another to the Galapagos Islands, 1000 kilometres off the coast of Ecuador in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Many people chose to travel between the islands on small but expensive cruise boats as this is the most efficient way to see all the sites. We had only booked one night's stay in the largest town of Puerto Ayora - population 18,000 - to maintain our flexibility.

 Galapagos sea lions catching some rays.